Souqs, Snakes and Street Food in Marrakesh
From the moment you set foot in Marrakesh, you get that uneasy feeling that you’ve left something behind. And no, it is not your toothbrush or passport. It’s your sense of direction...
The real treasures of this mysterious and exotic city is in its dusty alleyways teeming with souqs, ornate palaces and self-indulgent, energetic markets. If it’s chaos you seek, you’ll find it easily in the ancient ‘red city’. Marrakesh will mesmerise, hypnotise and enchant.
It’s easy to get lost here, especially in the medina, the old part of town that dates back to the eleventh century. Think of the souqs as a big shopping mall, but laid out in a complex, medieval-style labyrinth of twisty alleyways and a kaleidoscope of intoxicating backstreets.
The main artery of this mazy muddle leads to the vast square of Djemaa El Fna, where it's carnival night every night. Stroll between soothsayers, acrobats and conjurers, musicians and slapstick acting troupes to discover the old city's frenetic pulse.
If you suffer from ophidiophobia (an abnormal fear of snakes) then watch your step in the square. Snake charmers are speckled throughout the market and you can hear their pipes from a distance. Snake charmers scan the square for tourists, always ready to drape a black King Cobra around your neck for a photograph and a quick buck.
Even late into the evening, the market is buzzing with activity and Moroccans serve up some mouthwatering street food. Hundreds of makeshift grills and vats of steaming snails draw you to carts and tents. Restaurants even pay 'ambassadors' handsomely to seek out and coax potential patrons to their tables.
At restaurants, you sit down to the sounds of traditional Gnawa musicians and belly dancers winking at you from behind their veils. Clay cooking pots with conical lids (called tajines) can be seen bubbling away at every roadside cafe with fig- or olive-infused chicken and lamb variants.
From Mediterranean-style kebabs to fish dishes and rich tomato soup, you’ll eat like a king in Marrakesh. The city is also known for its mint tea, known as ‘Moroccan whisky’. The tea, laden with spearmint, is stuffed into the ornate silver teapots, sweetened with sugar cubes and poured into a tea glass from a height to create the frothy ‘crown’.
In Marrakesh, there is no such thing as a fair price. Haggling with souqs over the price of a rug or ornament is part of the shopping experience. Firstly, the souq will state his outrageous, tourist price (500 dirhams for a small souvenir that equates to R800), but
will expect you to hustle, bargain or barter till you settle on a price that will fit both your and the souq's pocket.
You’ll find a myriad of accommodation in the medina maze. The guesthouse, if you manage to find it, has the structure of a charming, traditional Moroccan riad, with an interior courtyard, two floors and five rooms at most. All of the rooms are equipped with aircon and en-suite bathrooms. Mosaic textiles and handwoven tapestry round off the ambiance of the place.
What the brochures don't tell you about Morocco...
• Population: 33 million (Morocco) | 1 Million (Marrakesh).
• The local currency is the dirham with approximately ZAR 1 equalling 0.60 MAD (Moroccan dirham).
• In Morocco, there's a lot of bureaucratic red tape and strict government censorship, so be careful what you do or say. If you’re a non-British citizen, make sure your visa papers are 100 per cent in order. Officials look for any excuse to deny you entry or detain you.
• When it comes to language, Marrakesh is not your traditional Islamic country. It has a North African/Mediterranean flavour. The most commonly spoke are: French, Arabic and Amazigh - a Berber dialect.
• Recent movies filmed in Morocco include the latest James Bond movie, Spectre, Mission Impossible: Rogue Nation and Sex and the City 2.
• Casablanca (starring Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman) won the Academy Award for best motion picture in 1942 despite not being filmed in the city it was named after.
• Morocco’s prized thuya wood was the first burled wood used for the luxury dashboard in the Rolls-Royce automobile.
• Morocco is one of the world’s largest producers of illicit hashish, only recently eclipsed by Afghanistan. In 2010, Morocco produced 760 tons of cannabis resin.
• Moroccans are fiercely protective and taking pictures without permission can lead to unwanted confrontation or land you in hot water.
The Marrakesh Bucket List
• Enjoy a two-hour safari from the top of a camel’s back through the palm tree groves of Marrakesh and surrounding Moroccan countryside, where you can explore traditional Berber villages and immerse yourself in the local culture.
• Get a cut-throat wet shave at a backstreet barbershop in the medina. If you’re in need of a shave and trim, there are plenty of barbershops in Marrakesh. For a quick, refreshing groom, complete with flaming razors, try a Berber barber.
• Leave your mark on the Atlas. Experience the history and drama of old Morocco with day trips across the towering heights of the snow-capped Atlas Mountains near Marrakesh. From here, you can visit Ouarzazate, where movies including Lawrence of Arabia, Star Wars and Gladiator have been filmed.
• Get a henna tattoo at the Jemaa el Fna. Sweet old ladies offering henna tattoos are widespread throughout the medina square. Beautiful patterns make it feel authentically Moroccan. They even provide you with complimentary tea. The tattoo only lasts a couple of weeks.
What to eat
• Crepes, banana, and bread for breakfast, including some mint tea, make for an aroma-filled and delicious start to your day. Breakfast is usually a light meal.
• For lunch, try Le Jardin. This tourist hangout is a green-hued oasis that features an overarching canopy of banana leaves, bamboo and palms. A light Moroccan salad, lamb burger or club sandwich, beet smoothie or date milkshake are recommended.
• For classic traditional Moroccan menus of salads, tajines and pastilla, feast at Al Fassia – an establishment that’s run by an all-women team.
What to avoid
• Street food vendors selling fried fish. Marrakesh is land-locked and getting fish there takes some effort. Fried fish is sold in street vendor stalls. The stalls are usually in plain view, and you only need to take a peek.
• Beef can be borderline. Make sure all beef is well cooked. Avoid rare or medium-rare beef meat.
• Just because it’s pricey doesn’t mean it is gourmet. Marrakesh has some delicious cuisine, but there are pretentious places with average food. Don’t take high price for great value, and often the best meals are found in the mid-range price eateries.
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